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《味遊古城 BoNinThai》|是濃湯不是咖喱?細談泰國紅綠黃咖喱

Published: Jun 12, 2026 by bonnie.yveskitchen · This post may contain affiliate links · Leave a Comment

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  • 泰國紅綠黃咖喱由來
  • 尋源咖喱
  • 青咖喱源起彭世洛
  • 自製泰式青咖喱醬
  • 泰菜冷知識
    • 為什麼泰國人叫 Kaeng 而不是 Curry?

泰國紅綠黃咖喱由來

撰文:Bonnie Yves | 首刊於《樂在明廚 Ming Pao Gourmet》2021-07

小時候,媽媽經常煮一鍋青青綠綠的湯汁給我們配飯,還教我和弟弟稱這鍋菜式叫「Kaeng」,直至長大後接觸到街外的泰菜才知道,原來是泰國青咖喱。

怎麼不喚作「咖喱」呢?原來在傳統的泰國人心目中,「咖喱 Curry」或者泰音「Kari」原來是外來語,是屬於外來的飲食文化。泰國傳統只有紅及青兩大主要的「Kaeng」,而且再細分之下,還有「酸咖喱 Kaeng Som」、「叢林咖喱 Kaeng Pa」、「魚雜咖喱 Kaeng Tai Pla」……等等超過十款以上的口味。傳統的煮法不會加入椰漿,味道多以酸、辣、甜為主調,相反黃咖喱會加入椰漿來增加濃厚的口感。

尋源咖喱

圖片來源/泰國19世紀古書,THE ROMANCE OF the HAREM,
by ANNA H. LEONOWENS, 1873, 1st Edition, THAILAND

根據對泰國歷史素有研究的學者分析,「Kaeng」跟漢字的「羹」是同源,所以按泰國人的說法,「Kaeng」是以各式香料、肉類或菜蔬所煮成的濃湯,也是媽媽從小跟我們解釋的說法類近。

泰國紅綠黃咖喱由來

那麼為何我們所認識的紅色、綠色濃湯會被稱為咖喱呢?可能與泰國的第三款咖喱 —— 黃咖喱拉上關係。黃咖喱又稱馬沙文咖喱 Massaman Curry,屬於泰國皇家的宮廷菜式,源自於泰國南部的菜系,並深受馬來西亞穆斯林菜及印度菜系所影響。泰國馬沙文咖喱更被 CNN Travel 網站選出成為全球 50 大美食榜,曾連續十年排行榜首之位,坊間更稱之為「萬食之王」及「咖喱之王」的美譽,可想而知世界各地對馬沙文咖喱的鐘愛。

Source: CNN news

馬沙文咖喱是一款辣度相對溫和,味道豐富濃郁,極具層次口感的菜式。主要材料有肉桂、丁香、肉豆蔻再加入果仁,然後再以椰漿增加濃稠度。由於是穆斯林菜式,一般會以雞肉及牛肉為主,有別於泰北以豬肉為主的做法。

傳統的紅及青咖喱,自泰國第一個王朝以來已經是民間的主食,源自於未統一立國之前,在老撾及周邊國家的菜系,大約有 800 多年歷史了。紅、青咖喱醬的材料及做法相若,只是紅咖喱醬會加入乾辣椒,拌入食用油後,一般可存放,味道更濃更香。青咖喱醬主要用上新鮮青辣椒,以石盅研醬料後,需要立即烹煮,味道追求鮮製的味道,久放了香氣會有所流失。

青咖喱源起彭世洛

泰國紅綠黃咖喱由來

相傳彭世洛更是青咖喱醬的發源地,由老撾族群開始流傳,廣傳於泰國中部、東北及北部地區。傳統的青咖喱醬味道偏向清淡,純以辣椒自身香氣,配以黑白胡椒及芫荽籽的辛香。在彭世洛地區更會加入甲差薑(又稱泰國蔘薑 Wild Ginger)增加青咖喱醬的層次感。而青咖喱醬流傳至近曼谷及南部地區後,加入了椰漿及椰糖,成為現時大多數人認識的青咖喱味道


自製泰式青咖喱醬

自製泰式青咖喱醬 (按入連結)
今次想跟大家分享家鄉的青咖喱醬做法。如果家中沒有石盅,也可以用攪拌機依次將材料混合拂打成醬。

Homemade Thai Green Curry Paste

泰菜冷知識

為什麼泰國人叫 Kaeng 而不是 Curry?

Thai curry story

「Kaeng」與漢字「羹」同源,原意是濃湯,直到黃咖喱受馬來影響後才普及「Curry」外來詞。


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Yves Kitchen, Bonnie Yves

Hi, I'm Bonnie

I cook, write & preserve food traditions between cultures,
from a Thai village to my tenement kitchen in Edinburgh.

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Sometimes, the best food isn’t about expensive ing Sometimes, the best food isn’t about expensive ingredients or beautiful interiors.

It’s about the heart of the person who makes it.

Last week, I stumbled upon this lovely little Japanese eatery. The cosy atmosphere made me feel as if I’d stepped into one of Japan’s quiet side streets. Every bite of the katsu curry was simple, comforting and full of care.

What made me smile even more was finding a small collection of cookbooks on the shelf, inviting customers to browse while waiting for their food. It’s these thoughtful little touches that make a place truly special. @509ramen 

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George Michael taught me the importance of being t George Michael taught me the importance of being true to yourself and listening to your own heart.

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