Marmalade, for me, is not just for breakfast.
It is a way of remembering where I come from.
My Kumquat Story
有些味道，不是第一次做，而是一直記得。這瓶金桔果醬，是一段橫跨時空的對話。故事要從爺爺說起，那時他在香港英軍軍營當伙頭，在那方廚房裡，他用雙手熬煮出英國人最熟悉的 Marmalade。
多年後的今天，我移居到了蘇格蘭。在愛丁堡的老公寓廚房裡，我用兒時記憶裡的「冰糖」取代了西方的白砂糖。這不是對英國食譜的單純改良，而是一種歸屬的找尋。當冰糖在鍋中與金桔交融，那清甜而不搶味的香氣，將爺爺在軍營的灶火與我此刻的窗光連在了一起。
Some flavours are not new; they are remembered. This Kumquat Marmalade is a bridge across time and geography. It began with my grandfather, who served as a cook for the British Army in Hong Kong. In those military kitchens, he mastered the art of marmalade—a quintessentially British preserve.
Today, in my tenement kitchen in Edinburgh, I use rock sugar—the sweetener of my childhood—to make it my own. This isn’t just a breakfast spread; it’s a way of keeping memory alive. The gentle sweetness and subtle aroma bring my grandfather’s army kitchen and my own window light together.
今年，我把這瓶冰糖金桔果皮醬寄往英國 Dalemain World Marmalade Awards。
評審並不知道 Yves Kitchen，也不知道我來自香港。他們只會打開瓶蓋，單純品嚐果醬本身。
最終，這瓶以冰糖製作的金桔果皮醬獲得銀獎。
對我來說，這份獎項最大的意義不是得獎，而是來自家鄉的味道，竟然能夠跨越文化與地域，被另一群人理解與欣賞。
What defines a Marmalade? | 什麼是 Marmalade？
在中文裡，我們習慣將所有的水果抹醬統稱為「果醬」。但在英國，Marmalade 有著嚴格的定義與靈魂。根據英國 2003 年的法律規定，唯有全部成分均來自「柑橘類水果」（如橙、檸檬、金桔）的產品，方能稱為 Marmalade。它的靈魂在於「果皮」的加入，那抹微苦的餘韻與精油香氣，正是它與一般果醬（Jam）最大的不同。
In many languages, all fruit preserves are simply called "Jam." However, in the UK, Marmalade holds a distinct legal and cultural status. According to The Jam and Similar Products (England) Regulations 2003, a true marmalade must be made exclusively from citrus fruits. It is the inclusion of the peel—the source of its characteristic bitterness and aromatic oils—that distinguishes it from its smoother cousins.
不同的年代，
不同的地方，
但同樣是
一鍋果醬，
一段被時間好好保存的記憶。
Across decades, across places,
one pot of marmalade,
one memory gently held by time.
Kumquat Marmalade Recipe 金桔果皮醬食譜
Kumquat Marmalade | 金桔果皮醬
Ingredients
- 270 g Fresh Kumquats 新鮮金桔
- 180 g Rock Sugar 冰糖 lightly crushed 稍微敲碎
- 200 ml Water 水
- 1 tablespoon Lemon Juice 檸檬汁
Instructions
Instructions | 做法: （大約一樽 200ml 份量，about 1 x 200ml Jar)
- Prepare the fruit: Wash thoroughly. Slice crosswise and remove seeds. Keep both peel and flesh. 準備水果： 將金桔洗淨，橫切並去籽。保留果皮與果肉。
- Soften the peel: Simmer kumquats and water for 15–20 minutes until translucent. 軟化果皮： 將金桔與水煮 15–20 分鐘，直至果皮透明。
- Sweeten: Add rock sugar and lemon juice. Stir over low heat until dissolved. 加入冰糖： 加入冰糖與檸檬汁，小火攪拌至溶解。
- Boil to set: Increase heat slightly and simmer for 10–15 minutes until it reaches the setting point. 熬煮： 稍微加大火力，煮 10–15 分鐘至果醬達到凝固點。
- Jar: Pour hot marmalade into a warm, sterilised jar and seal. 裝瓶： 將熱果醬倒入預熱、已消毒的玻璃瓶，密封。
Video
Notes
To ensure your marmalade sets perfectly without losing its vibrant colour and fresh aroma, keep these three professional tips in mind: 1. Gentle Heat to Release Pectin
Use controlled heat to coax the natural pectin from the fruit. Start with low to medium heat and gradually increase as the fruit softens. 2. The Water Balance
During the initial simmering, ensure the water just covers the fruit. Do not add extra water unless the fruit is at risk of sticking; it will release its own juice as it softens. 3. Cold Plate/Spoon Test
Because this recipe uses rock sugar and pectin-rich kumquats, it may reach its setting point before the traditional 105°C. When bubbles become large and slow, perform the test: place a spoonful on a chilled plate or spoon; if the marmalade forms two separate drops instead of running in a stream, it is ready.
煮製要點：熱釋果膠的秘密 為了讓果醬凝固完美，同時保留鮮亮的色澤與清新香氣，請留意以下三個專業小技巧： 1. 火力釋放果膠
使用溫和火力，讓水果中的天然果膠逐步釋放。先用小火或中小火慢慢加熱，水果軟化後再逐步增加火力。 2. 水分掌控
在初步燉煮時，水量只需覆蓋水果即可。除非擔心粘鍋，否則不要額外加水，水果會隨著軟化釋出汁液。 3. 冷盤/匙測試
由於本食譜使用冰糖與果膠豐富的金桔，凝固點可能早於傳統 105°C。當鍋中氣泡變大且緩慢時，取一小匙放在冰冷的盤子或湯匙上；若果醬呈現兩滴分離而非連續流動，即表示已達凝固點。
後記：
多年來，我一直相信製作果醬不是為了把水果封存，而是把回憶保存下來。這瓶冰糖金桔果皮醬，從香港的廚房出發，走到泰國，最後來到英國的 Marmalade Awards。
或許，家的味道真的能走得很遠。
歡迎將這篇食譜收藏起來！
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